A Long Weekend Escape to Golden Bay

Whether you’re road tripping from further south, taking the Wellington-to-Picton ferry or landing at Nelson Airport, the drive towards Golden Bay provides plenty of reasons to pull over and stretch the legs.

About 25 minutes from Nelson, you’ll find Māpua Wharf. Once a fruit-shipping port, the old cool-store buildings have since been transformed into a lively waterfront precinct of restaurants, galleries, boutiques and more. Grab a coffee from Rabbit Island Coffee Co, pop into Golden Bear Brewing Company for a feed, and maybe even take the plunge with the other adventurous wharf jumpers.

Just up the road is The Moutere Inn, which may look like your average country pub but is actually a little more special than that. It’s the oldest pub in Aotearoa still operating in its original building. There’s craft beer on tap, hearty pub dishes and lush valley views best enjoyed from the garden.

At the entrance to Motueka, TOAD Hall is another inviting place to stop for lunch in a sunny garden setting. Open for breakfast and lunch, the menu spans everything from coffee and cake to burgers, house-brewed beer and cold-pressed juices. An organic market garden sits behind the café, supplying both the kitchen and the small onsite store stocked with fresh produce and pantry staples. Their salad bags and jars of signature vinaigrette are particularly worth taking home.

There’s just one more stop before the climb over Tākaka Hill begins. Fraser’s Orchard Farm Shop sits conveniently at the base of the hill in Riwaka, overflowing with seasonal produce from the family orchard. Depending on the time of year, you’ll find strawberries, watermelons, tomatoes, apples and pears lining the roadside stall. Stock up for the weekend ahead, or simply grab something fresh and juicy for the drive.

You made it. Time to check into your accommodation for the weekend.

Perched on a hilltop above Tata Beach, Drift Off Grid takes luxury eco-glamping to another level. There are two beautifully appointed tents, both offering sweeping ocean views, super king beds, log fires, double showers and vintage soaking baths. Best of all, the entire experience is completely solar powered.

Tata Beach itself is one of Golden Bay’s many gems, loved by both laid-back sunseekers and keen watersports enthusiasts. Walk (or take the electric buggy provided by Drift Off Grid) down to the beachfront for a stroll along the sand or a dip in the water. If you fancy a paddle around the bay’s two picturesque islands, there’s a kayak rental service at the far end of the beach.

For dinner, take the 15-minute drive back into Tākaka and settle in at The Dangerous Kitchen, a local favourite known for its pizzas and relaxed atmosphere. There’s something for everyone on the menu, from meat lovers to vegans, with nearly all produce sourced locally. Grab a picnic table out front, sink into a couch inside or head through to the surprisingly spacious courtyard out the back.

After a slow morning of coffee in bed and complimentary breakfast, lace up your walking shoes and head towards Wainui Falls for one of Golden Bay’s most rewarding short walks. The track follows the Wainui River through lush native bush, crossing small bridges and weaving beneath towering trees before arriving at the cascading waterfall itself.

On a warm day, brave visitors often take a dip in the chilly water, while others simply perch on the rocks and soak up the scenery. The walk is suitable for most fitness levels and takes around 30 to 40 minutes each way.

Conveniently located just around the corner, Totos Café & Pizzeria is a hidden gem known for its woodfired pizzas, garden setting and native bush surroundings. It’s only open on weekends, so it pays to check their Facebook page for the latest opening hours before heading out.

No Golden Bay escape feels complete without sampling something locally distilled, so spend the afternoon at Kiwi Spirit Distillery in Motupipi for a gin tasting. The family-owned distillery produces a range of small-batch spirits inspired by the surrounding landscape, using native botanicals and locally sourced ingredients.

The tasting experience is relaxed and unpretentious, with cocktails and a delicious tapas menu available too.

From there, head back into the heart of Tākaka for a slow wander through town. Golden Bay has long attracted artists and creatives, and that energy spills out into its colourful collection of artisan shops, galleries and street art. Spend the afternoon browsing handmade ceramics, locally crafted jewellery, vintage treasures and natural skincare products, with murals and painted shopfronts adding bursts of character along the way.

As the day winds down, settle in at Roots Bar for drinks and dinner. A favourite with both locals and visitors, the cosy venue regularly hosts live music and has that welcoming small-town feel. The menu focuses on fresh, flavour-packed dishes designed for sharing, alongside local beers, natural wines and creative cocktails. Find a spot in the garden courtyard if it’s warm (there’s an outdoor fire too) or tuck yourself into a cosy nook inside.

Today’s itinerary is jam-packed, so start with coffee and something freshly baked from Bacca, a small-but-mighty bakery and café in Tākaka. The cabinet is usually filled with flaky pastries, sandwiches and sweet treats that disappear quickly.

From there, continue the drive north-west towards Collingwood, Golden Bay’s oldest and second-largest town. The drive itself is beautiful, revealing quiet beaches, farmland and wide estuary views along the way, so it’s worth taking your time.

For those wanting a deeper experience of the area, Farewell Spit Tours offers guided trips onto the protected spit itself, a remarkable landscape of sand dunes, seabirds and rugged coastline usually inaccessible to the public. The full tour takes around 6.5 hours, making it best suited to travellers keen to dedicate most of the day to the experience.

Otherwise, continue onwards to Wharariki Beach, one of the South Island’s most breathtaking coastal spots. After a short walk through rolling paddocks, the landscape suddenly opens up to vast windswept dunes, dramatic rock formations and wild ocean views. The famous Archway Islands rise from the sea just offshore, and if you’re lucky, you may even spot seals playing in the rock pools near the shoreline.

After filling up on sea breeze, head back towards Collingwood for lunch at The Courthouse Café. Housed inside a charming historic building, the café is a relaxed spot to refuel with hearty cabinet food, fresh baking and classic café dishes. Grab a table in the garden if the sun is shining and enjoy the slower pace of this tiny coastal township.

Before leaving town, make time for a browse through The Historic Langford Store. Originally established in the 1920s, the beautifully restored building now houses an eclectic mix of homewares, gifts, clothing and locally made goods. Even if you leave empty-handed, the building itself is worth stepping inside for.

On the drive back towards Tākaka, stretch the legs once more with a walk along the Pūpū Hydro Walkway. The two-hour return trail follows remnants of New Zealand’s first hydroelectric scheme, weaving through native bush and alongside mossy waterways rich with history and birdlife.

Nearby, Te Waikoropupū Springs is another worthwhile stop, even if only briefly. The springs are renowned for having some of the clearest water ever measured, with vivid blue and emerald tones visible from the viewing platforms above. The site holds deep cultural and spiritual significance and has an almost otherworldly stillness about it. If time allows, complete the full 45-minute loop walk before heading back towards town.

For your final evening in Golden Bay, there’s nowhere quite like The Mussel Inn. The legendary pub has been welcoming locals, musicians and travellers since the 1990s and remains one of the region’s most iconic spots.

The atmosphere is wonderfully unpolished in the best possible way: mismatched furniture, fairy lights, roaring fires and a magical garden setting that encourages you to settle in for the evening. Check the live music schedule before visiting, as many nights feature local bands and travelling musicians.