Laid-Back Lodges of Manawatū: A Quiet Guide to Slowing Down
The Manawatū knows how to do unhurried well. Drive twenty minutes and you’re among rolling farmland, native bush and big skies.
Words by: Katherine Dewar
Photography by: Anna Briggs and supplied
The collection of nearby lodges and retreats makes it easy to put the phone down and sink into the scenery, from intimate chef’s table dining and riverside hot tubs to beautifully repurposed historic spaces. Here are five places to bookmark for your next switch-off.
Kaitahi Chef’s Table & Lodge
Aokautere
Kaitahi is an intimate hosted experience set among three acres of native bush. Dinner takes place around the chef’s table, where guests sit together and courses are prepared, delivered and explained by the award-winning Chef Ryan himself. Two luxury guest suites turn dinner into a full escape, and their ‘Ultimate Getaway’ folds in two nights’ accommodation, a chef’s table dinner with matched beverages, an in-room dining moment and slow breakfasts. Hosts are present without hovering, happy to share the stories behind the space and the kai on the plate, or to point you towards nearby walks and galleries.
Hiwinui Country Estate
Ashhurst
A boutique rural lodge on a fifth-generation family farm, Hiwinui is set up for proper unwinding. The main lodge offers super-king suites (think spa bath or double shower) plus a queen room; complete with all the small touches that make the difference: garden flowers, quality linen, fresh slippers. Separate from the lodge, the Tree Tops apartment is fully self-contained, with a private entrance, kitchenette and balcony that looks across farmland and pond. Their Lakehouse Retreat takes things up a notch, including a private hot tub experience by the water. An easy rural reset just ten minutes from town.
Makoura Lodge
Apiti
Makoura Lodge is a classic country stay that scales up or down depending on your trip. Choose from six lodge suites, the beautifully restored five-bedroom Glenluce Homestead, the three-bedroom Burnside Bungalow or the secluded Riverside Retreat with outdoor bath and firepit for those who love a little roasted marshmallow. Between the ranges and the river, there’s plenty to do: clay shooting, archery, 4WD experiences and even a communication workshop with horses. Just 50 minutes from Palmerston North, it’s a serene countryside hideaway fit for big events or intimate occasions.
Rathmoy Estate
Rangitīkei
Tucked away on a working farm overlooking the Rangitīkei River, Rathmoy’s Riverside Lodge is a private retreat with stunning views of the white papa cliffs. Book it and the place is yours: exclusive use of the lodge and surrounds, riverside access and a cedar hot tub. The modern, spacious set-up sleeps up to 10-12, with an open-plan kitchen for self-catering (or you can arrange catering if you’d rather leave the cooking to someone else). It’s only a few minutes off State Highway 1, but once you’re in, it feels far from everything.
The Last Church
Āpiti
A former church and Sunday school turned boutique stay, The Last Church in Āpiti leans into calm. Sleep in the tastefully renovated Sunday school building, linger in the light-filled lounge with a wood burner and a good book, or take your pick between an indoor or outdoor bath. The original church next door is yours to enjoy (pews and all), and the courtyard between the two buildings makes a sweet spot for a morning coffee. It’s a good base for exploring the Ruahine Ranges, glow-worm spots and swimming holes, or for doing very little at all.
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Forget the algorithm. When you follow the locals, you land on the places actually worth going to: for coffee, kai, fresh air and a bit of culture. Here’s a Palmy hit-list bundled the way residents talk about it.
Neat Palmerston North Places
Saigon Corner
Head to Saigon Corner on Princess Street for a taste of Vietnam. This local spot’s modern Vietnamese cuisine has earned excellence on TripAdvisor for over three years straight, and it doesn’t take long to figure out why.
Central Bicycle Studio
If your bike needs a trusted hand in central Palmerston North, head to Central Bicycle Studio on 267 Main Street.
LOCAL Café and Eatery
The fit-out is welcoming and bright, with cosy booths, low-top tables, a long communal table, and plenty of patio seating for nice days.
Ginger Bird
Ginger Bird is a countryside café with a big heart, excellent service, homemade treats and barista coffee. The café is housed within two shipping containers, but you’d never guess once inside as the wide windows, light timber and warm lighting give the space a cosy, homey feel.
Te Āpiti Manawatū Gorge
For a breathtaking outdoor adventure, simply pop “State Highway Three - Manawatū Gorge” into your map app and complete the quick 20 minute drive from downtown Palmerston North. Nestled between mountains and carved by geological forces over the last three million years, Te Āpiti is a natural time capsule.
