Laid-Back Lodges of Manawatū: A Quiet Guide to Slowing Down

Guest looking at the view from the balcony.

The Manawatū knows how to do unhurried well. Drive twenty minutes and you’re among rolling farmland, native bush and big skies.

Words by: Katherine Dewar

Photography by: Anna Briggs and supplied

The collection of nearby lodges and retreats makes it easy to put the phone down and sink into the scenery, from intimate chef’s table dining and riverside hot tubs to beautifully repurposed historic spaces. Here are five places to bookmark for your next switch-off.

Kaitahi Chef’s Table & Lodge

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Aokautere

Kaitahi is an intimate hosted experience set among three acres of native bush. Dinner takes place around the chef’s table, where guests sit together and courses are prepared, delivered and explained by the award-winning Chef Ryan himself. Two luxury guest suites turn dinner into a full escape, and their ‘Ultimate Getaway’ folds in two nights’ accommodation, a chef’s table dinner with matched beverages, an in-room dining moment and slow breakfasts. Hosts are present without hovering, happy to share the stories behind the space and the kai on the plate, or to point you towards nearby walks and galleries.

Hiwinui Country Estate

Ashhurst

A boutique rural lodge on a fifth-generation family farm, Hiwinui is set up for proper unwinding. The main lodge offers super-king suites (think spa bath or double shower) plus a queen room; complete with all the small touches that make the difference: garden flowers, quality linen, fresh slippers. Separate from the lodge, the Tree Tops apartment is fully self-contained, with a private entrance, kitchenette and balcony that looks across farmland and pond. Their Lakehouse Retreat takes things up a notch, including a private hot tub experience by the water. An easy rural reset just ten minutes from town.

Makoura Lodge

Apiti

Makoura Lodge is a classic country stay that scales up or down depending on your trip. Choose from six lodge suites, the beautifully restored five-bedroom Glenluce Homestead, the three-bedroom Burnside Bungalow or the secluded Riverside Retreat with outdoor bath and firepit for those who love a little roasted marshmallow. Between the ranges and the river, there’s plenty to do: clay shooting, archery, 4WD experiences and even a communication workshop with horses. Just 50 minutes from Palmerston North, it’s a serene countryside hideaway fit for big events or intimate occasions.

Rathmoy Estate

Rangitīkei

Tucked away on a working farm overlooking the Rangitīkei River, Rathmoy’s Riverside Lodge is a private retreat with stunning views of the white papa cliffs. Book it and the place is yours: exclusive use of the lodge and surrounds, riverside access and a cedar hot tub. The modern, spacious set-up sleeps up to 10-12, with an open-plan kitchen for self-catering (or you can arrange catering if you’d rather leave the cooking to someone else). It’s only a few minutes off State Highway 1, but once you’re in, it feels far from everything.

The Last Church

Āpiti

A former church and Sunday school turned boutique stay, The Last Church in Āpiti leans into calm. Sleep in the tastefully renovated Sunday school building, linger in the light-filled lounge with a wood burner and a good book, or take your pick between an indoor or outdoor bath. The original church next door is yours to enjoy (pews and all), and the courtyard between the two buildings makes a sweet spot for a morning coffee. It’s a good base for exploring the Ruahine Ranges, glow-worm spots and swimming holes, or for doing very little at all.

Neat Palmerston North Places

BABCO - Brick Artisan Bread Company

Close up of pastries in a box at BABCO.
Place Palmerston North Editor's Pick
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BABCO, which stands for Brick Artisan Bread Company, was started by husband and wife duo Alice and Jeremy. The Palmerston North pair created BABCO from scratch in every sense of the phrase - it all started with a bread baking experiment in their backyard pizza oven.

Feilding Farmers Market

A giant whitebait pattie with a lemon wedge on the side.
Place Palmerston North
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Many of Manawatū's most talented, passionate and well-known growers, cheesemakers, artisans, bakers, herbalists, apiarists, florists and craftspeople have stalls at the Feilding Farmers Market making this market a celebration of all things fresh and local.

Bruce McKenzie Booksellers

A woman looking at a book.
Place Palmerston North Editor's Pick

Bruce McKenzie Booksellers is a Palmerston North business with serious staying power. The shop opened over 20 years ago on George Street. Today, Bruce and his daughter Louisa run the shop, at the same location, with a small staff of knowledgeable booksellers.

Wildbase Recovery

A rescued morepork cuddling up in a blue towel.
Place Palmerston North
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Massey University’s Wildbase Hospital is a place where you can observe New Zealand’s unique native species and learn more about the hard work that goes into looking after them.