Things to Do in Palmerston North: A 12-Hour Guide

Start early at BABCO (Brick Artisan Bread Company) in Terrace End, where you'll find the artisan bread and pastries of your dreams, all made fresh, from scratch, every day. Grab a coffee and take your pick from the cabinet: the delicious union of a pain au chocolat and an almond croissant, caramilk croissants, fruit danishes or generously filled doughnuts.

Loyal fans will tell you the Everyday Sourdough is some of the best bread money can buy, so pick up a loaf for later too. This is a grab-and-go stop, so pack your haul in the car - you've got a gorge to get to.

From Terrace End, it's a quick 20-minute drive east along Napier Road to Te Āpiti Manawatū Gorge. Nestled between two mountain ranges and carved by geological forces over the last three million years, Te Āpiti is a natural time capsule - and there's no better way to start the day. It's also the only place in New Zealand where a river begins its journey on the opposite side of the main divide to where it meets the sea.

Park at Western Gateway Park on Napier Road, at the Ashhurst end, and set off on the Tawa Loop, a 4.1 km track that takes around two hours. It winds through native podocarp broadleaved forest and an abundance of nīkau palms, passes above the iconic landslide site and reaches a lookout with views over Palmerston North and Ashhurst. Keep an eye out for the carving of Whatonga where the loop rejoins the main track. Got all day? The full one-way track runs around 11 km through to Woodville.

Back at the foot of Te Āpiti, reward yourself at Gorge Quarter, a coffee hut bringing fresh energy and fun-loving vibes to the gorge. Part coffee spot, part curated retail store, it's a charming little hub where Kiwi nostalgia, natural beauty and a homely country feel all come together. Expect cyclists, runners, nature lovers, kids and dogs, plus sweeping views out to the Manawatū and Pohangina rivers.

Order an organic Kōkako coffee and something homemade from the farm kitchen - think dark chocolate and pistachio cookies or berry-custard brioche. The building itself tells local stories, made with salvaged materials including rocks from the gorge slip that closed the old road and sheep rails from a woolshed. Have a browse of the shelves too, stocked with nature books, handmade pieces and pottery crafted from on-site clay.

Head back into the city centre for a late-morning browse of some of Palmy's best independents, all within a short walk of each other.

Start at Bruce McKenzie Booksellers on George Street. For close to 30 years, this family-run bookstore has stocked thousands of new titles, with a special focus on books and authors that tell the story of Aotearoa and Manawatū. A few doors down, Pork Chop Hill is an independent clothing label turned local icon, known for original tees and designs that celebrate Kiwi culture - part shop, part secret handshake.

Then make your way to Main Street and Zimmerman Art Gallery, a contemporary art space with all the creativity and none of the pretentiousness. Curator Bronwyn Zimmerman showcases bronze sculptures, ceramics and paintings, with a new exhibition every month. Finish up at Square Edge on The Square, Palmerston North's long-standing community arts centre, home to studios, galleries and workshops. Don't miss Lightbox inside, a gallery-meets-artisan store supporting a growing range of local makers.

Make your way to Cuba Street for lunch at Café Cuba, a local institution since the '90s. Now refreshed by new owners, it serves up generous brunches and lunches, Havana coffee and a healthy dose of Cuban-inspired charm.

The vibe is relaxed and welcoming, the kind of place where a quick bite easily turns into a long lunch. It's easy to see why it keeps locals coming back.

After lunch, make your way to College Street and Mabel Vickers. Tucked into a former butchery (look for the little black building on the corner), this calm, craft-led store is full of New Zealand brands, one-of-a-kind ceramics and considered gifts.

Everything here is chosen for quality, character and longevity, so it's an easy place to find a keepsake from your trip. Staying a little longer? Book into one of their pottery workshops and make one of your own.

Next up is Victoria Esplanade, Palmy's green jewel. Its 26 hectares take in gardens, bush tracks and bike paths, the famed rose garden and the Peter Black Conservatory. It's easy to get lost here, in the best way.

Tucked inside the Esplanade is Central Energy Trust Wildbase Recovery, a must for birders, supporters of native species or anyone who simply loves to be outside. Its mission is to provide shelter and world-class care to native wildlife recovering after treatment at Massey University's Wildbase Hospital. In the walk-through aviary you'll meet permanent residents like Māia and Tāne, two cheeky kākā. Keep a sharp eye on the ground too, as a few tuatara live here. Peer through special screens in the recovery aviaries to watch birds working towards a return to the wild. When we visited, an adorable morepork was peacefully snoozing on his perch.

From the Esplanade, wander down to the mighty Manawatū River and the He Ara Kotahi Bridge and Pathway. This stunning bridge is an architectural feat, and its name means a pathway that brings people together. Walk or bike across and, if you have time, go for an extended wander.

The 7.1 km track connects Palmerston North to Linton Military Camp and Massey University. Along the way you'll find farms, forests, pā sites and a host of native wildlife living along the river's banks. Take a look at the bridge's design too, which is inspired by a fallen karaka tree and beautifully lit at night. The roots can be seen on the southern side and the canopy at the northern end, and a real-time counter shows how many walkers and bikers have come this way before you.

Access is available from Ruha Street, Fitzherbert Avenue, Dairy Farm Road or Bells Road.

Head back into town for a pre-dinner drink at Brew Union. Created by beer nerds for beer nerds, this homegrown brewpub pours its own beers (and others) from more than twenty taps, with the brewing set-up on show at the front.

One of their most popular brews is Swamp Juice, a hazy IPA with punchy hops and stone fruit flavours. Not a beer drinker? Peruse the gin, wine and cocktail lists instead. The woodfired pizzas are tempting, but save room - dinner is next.

End the day at Little Savanna, a local favourite bringing the traditional South African braai indoors. Flame-grilled meats, warm hospitality and a good pour of wine go hand in hand here, with New Zealand's finest produce given the bold, smoky treatment.

Think of it as a culinary safari. If choosing feels too hard, order a paddle of three or six and taste your way through. The expert fit-out gives the restaurant a look all of its own, making it one of the most distinctive places to dine in Palmy.