FJ Noodles and Dumplings

Tucked within the humming heart of dynamic Courtenay Place, FJ Noodles and Dumplings could be one of the nation’s most unassuming noodle artisans. In a true case of don’t let the decor fool you, step through this narrow storefront portal, and you’ll find yourself in a stripped-back setting very much like the famous noodle shops of northern China.

The team here has cultivated a devoted following of those who love hand-pulled lāmiàn (pulled noodles) and freshly made dumplings. From the street, the classic red-themed façade catches your attention immediately: bold white characters, and a neon “Kungfu Noodles” sign glowing beside the glass doorway, which offers a glimpse inside. With wooden panelling interior and white walls, there are handwritten red blessings from grateful customers, and a small golden lucky cat waving eternal welcome from atop jars of chilli oil. More function than form, what really matters is the few small tables, practical chairs and stacks of blue-and-white porcelain bowls.

A red curtain parts to reveal the open kitchen where a centuries-old method takes place: long, elastic strands of hand-pulled lāmiàn stretched and folded in mid-air before plunging into pots of boiling water, ready for broth or spice. Every bowl is built fresh, with a pick-your-thickness approach: chewy knife-cut noodles slicked with chilli oil, delicate round strands in clear fragrant soup, or wider biang-biang belts topped with Chinese staples such as minced pork, greens and roasted nuts. Dumplings come pan-fried or boiled and arrive steaming, with skins thin enough to see the filling inside. And this is all in addition to their legendary smorgasbord offerings, the foundations of what have made FJ a true institution of Wellington’s CBD.

Wellington’s hungriest have enjoyed the authentic fare here for years. In a strip that boasts a variety of authentic cuisines, FJ Noodles and Dumplings is in good company and delivers on flavour every single visit.