City Icons: 10 Long-Standing Eateries in the Heart of Courtenay Precinct

Customers sitting at an outdoor table outside Phoencian Falafel.

In the heart of the Courtenay Precinct sits a cluster of long-standing eateries that have helped shape the flavour (literally) of Wellington’s food scene and central cultural identity. Decades in, these icons continue to anchor the precinct with good stories, honest hospitality, and the kind of dishes locals return for again and again.

Words by: Johnny Gibson
Photos by: Anna Briggs and Werk

From iconic neon markers and late-night noodles to treasured family recipes passed through decades, these enduring favourites continue to hold space for the curious, the hungry, the nostalgic and the loyal. Here’s a closer look at the institutions still shaping the heart, and appetite, of Courtenay Precinct.

J & M Fastfoods

21 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro, Wellington

Crowned by the giant Coca-Cola bottle that has become a Courtenay Place landmark, J&M is the kind of spot every Wellingtonian knows. Jenny Eir and her family took over in 2006 after arriving as refugees from Cambodia, and you’ll almost always find her behind the counter keeping things running with warmth and efficiency. What J&M lacks in glamour, it makes up for in history and flavour: Kiwi-Chinese favourites, cult-status fried chicken and chicken-salted chips, and the kind of comfort food you crave at lunch or at 2am, proof that the best meals often come from the humblest tables.

Dragons

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25 Tory Street, Te Aro

A cornerstone of Wellington’s yum cha scene, Dragons is always buzzing. Its extensive menu is true to traditional Chinese dining and spans all the classics, from pork and shrimp dim sum to BBQ pork buns that long-timers swear by. Families, friends and weekend regulars flock here for steaming baskets of Cantonese goodness and that timeless, convivial atmosphere that makes yum cha so special.

Monsoon Poon

12 Blair Street, Te Aro, Wellington

Family-owned since 2001, Monsoon Poon remains one of the city’s most vibrant Southeast Asian–inspired dining rooms. Colourful, eclectic and lively, it’s a guaranteed good-time destination, especially for groups. Big flavours, a bit of heat, a festive vibe and reliable service make it a winner for celebrations and for impressing out-of-towners.

Nicolini's

9 Blair Street, Te Aro, Wellington

A bona fide crowd-pleaser since 1997, Nicolini's is synonymous with traditional Italian hospitality in the CBD. Fabrizio works his magic in the kitchen, while Antonio ensures the front of house runs smoothly, keeping the family touch alive. Big portions, rustic classics and genuine warmth define the experience, backed by recipes passed through generations. It's the kind of place where dinner becomes a memory, with long tables, plenty of wine and plates that feel like home.

Dragonfly

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70 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro, Wellington

Dragonfly brings a modern, stylish approach to Asian dining in the precinct, offering refined takes on traditional flavours in a chic, intimate setting. Shared plates, cocktails and great energy are the signature trio here, along with the famous hidden courtyard, a secluded little oasis perfect for late dinners and leisurely drinks.

Brother and sister Brent Wong and Tania Siladi grew up in their family's restaurant, then headed overseas to learn from kitchens and dining rooms around the world. When they returned to Wellington, they had a clear idea of the restaurant they wanted to build, one that reflects their roots, their travels and their vision.

KC Café & Takeaway

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39A Courtenay Pl, Te Aro, Wellington

One of the city’s great open secrets, KC Café & Takeaway has been serving authentic Chinese comfort food to hungry crowds for years. With a 160+ dish menu and queues to match, it’s a beloved late-night institution, adored enough to generate an enthusiastic Instagram fan page. Fast, flavoursome and fiercely local, exactly what Courtenay Place is all about. You'll probably catch a glimpse of the cafe's owner and namesake, Kom Fai Chan, or Michael (his full initials couldn't be used, for obvious reasons, hence 'KC' Cafe).

Kazu Yakitori & Sake Bar

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43 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro, Wellington

Tucked up the stairs above the main strip, Kazu is one of Wellington’s finest Japanese gems. Cosy, atmospheric and endlessly satisfying, it serves up yakitori straight off the grill, excellent ramen and towering beers that always get the table talking. A go-to for those who know that some of the best dining happens above street level

Apache

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66 Tory St, Te Aro, Wellington

Winning Wellingtonians and visitors over since its first Wakefield Street site in 2014, Apache is the vision of owner Le Minh, who brings a bold, unforgettable energy to the city's Vietnamese dining scene. His modern take on Vietnamese street food, with a French influence woven through, arrives in vibrant shared plates, backed by moody lighting, lively colours, and a playlist that sets just the right tempo. It's a place for clinking glasses, social dinners and nights that stretch happily on.

Phoenician Falafel

11 Kent Ter, Mount Victoria, Wellington

A fixture since 1997, Phoenician Falafel keeps Wellington connected to the flavours of Beirut with honest, scratch-made Lebanese favourites. Zahi Assaf, son of owners Tony and Yola, helps carry the family tradition, serving up everything from crispy falafel to silky hummus and fragrant wraps. This family-run spot is cherished for its authenticity and long-standing commitment to doing things traditionally.

FJ Noodles and Dumplings

45 Courtenay Pl, Te Aro, Wellington

FJ is a temple of Chinese comfort, beloved for its hand-pulled noodles, steaming dumplings and legendary smorgasbord that has fuelled the CBD for decades. Pick your noodle thickness; knife-cut, round, biang-biang, and settle into a bowl built fresh to order. Dumplings arrive thin-skinned and piping hot, completing the simple, satisfying magic FJ has perfected over the years.

Neat Wellington Places

Völco Egmont Street

Exterior view of Volco's laneway location.
Place Wellington
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Völco’s latest outpost is a warm, welcoming addition to Wellington that takes over the former site of the much-loved Egmont Street Deli & Diner.

Charley Noble

Chef at work in the kitchen at Charley Noble, Wellington.
Place Wellington
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A favourite spot for nearby business people, don't be surprised to see Charley Noble buzzing with guests even early in the week right through from breakfast till dinnertime.

Garage Project

Coloured framed art on wall.
Place Wellington
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Situated in an old petrol station in the Aro Valley, Garage Project’s vibe is all about producing experimental beers in a perfect, yet unexpected setting.

Escarpment Domes

A view of a bay from inside Escarpment Domes Porirua.
Place Porirua
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Some of the best ideas are born out of midlife crises.