City Icons: 10 Long-Standing Eateries in the Heart of Courtenay Precinct

Crowned by the giant Coca-Cola bottle that has become a Courtenay Place landmark, J&M is the kind of spot every Wellingtonian knows. Jenny Eir and her family took over in 2006 after arriving as refugees from Cambodia, and you’ll almost always find her behind the counter keeping things running with warmth and efficiency. What J&M lacks in glamour, it makes up for in history and flavour: Kiwi-Chinese favourites, cult-status fried chicken and chicken-salted chips, and the kind of comfort food you crave at lunch or at 2am, proof that the best meals often come from the humblest tables.

A cornerstone of Wellington’s yum cha scene, Dragons is always buzzing. Its extensive menu is true to traditional Chinese dining and spans all the classics, from pork and shrimp dim sum to BBQ pork buns that long-timers swear by. Families, friends and weekend regulars flock here for steaming baskets of Cantonese goodness and that timeless, convivial atmosphere that makes yum cha so special.

Family-owned since 2001, Monsoon Poon remains one of the city’s most vibrant Southeast Asian–inspired dining rooms. Colourful, eclectic and lively, it’s a guaranteed good-time destination, especially for groups. Big flavours, a bit of heat, a festive vibe and reliable service make it a winner for celebrations and for impressing out-of-towners.

A bona fide crowd-pleaser since 1997, Nicolini’s is synonymous with traditional Italian hospitality in the CBD. Big portions, rustic classics and genuine warmth define the experience, backed by family recipes passed through generations. It’s the kind of place where dinner becomes a memory, with long tables, plenty of wine and plates that feel like home.

Dragonfly brings a modern, stylish approach to Asian dining in the precinct, offering refined takes on traditional flavours in a chic, intimate setting. Shared plates, cocktails and great energy are the signature trio here, along with the famous hidden courtyard, a secluded little oasis perfect for late dinners and leisurely drinks.

One of the city’s great open secrets, KC Café & Takeaway has been serving authentic Chinese comfort food to hungry crowds for years. With a 160+ dish menu and queues to match, it’s a beloved late-night institution, adored enough to generate an enthusiastic Instagram fan page. Fast, flavoursome and fiercely local, exactly what Courtenay Place is all about.

Tucked up the stairs above the main strip, Kazu is one of Wellington’s finest Japanese gems. Cosy, atmospheric and endlessly satisfying, it serves up yakitori straight off the grill, excellent ramen and towering beers that always get the table talking. A go-to for those who know that some of the best dining happens above street level

Winning Wellingtonians and visitors over since its first Wakefield Street site in 2014, Apache continues to bring a bold, unforgettable energy to the city’s Vietnamese dining scene. Its modern take on Vietnamese street food, with a French influence woven through, arrives in vibrant shared plates, backed by moody lighting, lively colours and a playlist that sets just the right tempo. A place for clinking glasses, social dinners and nights that stretch happily on.

A fixture since 1997, Phoenician Falafel keeps Wellington connected to the flavours of Beirut with honest, scratch-made Lebanese favourites. From crispy falafel to silky hummus and fragrant wraps, this family-run spot is cherished for its authenticity and long-standing commitment to doing things traditionally.

FJ is a temple of Chinese comfort, beloved for its hand-pulled noodles, steaming dumplings and legendary smorgasbord that has fuelled the CBD for decades. Pick your noodle thickness; knife-cut, round, biang-biang, and settle into a bowl built fresh to order. Dumplings arrive thin-skinned and piping hot, completing the simple, satisfying magic FJ has perfected over the years.