Highway 35: The Slow Road to Something Special

Just minutes out of Gisborne, the coastline unfurls into the golden sweep of Wainui Beach, a favourite among surfers chasing glassy waves and locals soaking up the sun. It’s the kind of place where you’ll just want to pull over, kick off your shoes, and let the salt air reset your pace. Enjoy a pick-me-up from Neighbourhood Cantina, a vibrant Mexican eatery serving up tacos, burrito bowls, fresh fish, calamari, and for good measure, a cheeseburger that’s earned its own loyal following. Fun, flavourful, and full of personality, it’s one of Wainui’s go-to spots for a casual bite with serious taste.

Just a few minutes up the road, Makorori Beach comes into view, a quintessentially Kiwi coastline with more sweeping golden sands, crisp surf, and water so blue it feels almost unreal. From there, the road curves into Tatapouri, where the tide brings more than just waves. With Dive Tatapouri, visitors can wade out on a guided reef walk to meet wild stingrays and other marine life in their natural habitat. It’s an unforgettable way to connect with the ocean before even leaving the first leg of the drive.

Tolaga Bay is home to New Zealand’s longest wharf, stretching 660 metres into the sea. Walking the length of it gives sweeping views, as does the Cooks Cove Walkway, an easy to medium 2-hour loop hike down to where Captain Cook once anchored. The track leads to a natural rock arch framing the Pacific Ocean, making it a picturesque photo stop.

Between Tolaga Bay and Tokomaru Bay lies one of the East Coast’s true hidden gems: Anaura Bay. It’s home to one of the country’s most breathtaking beaches, with golden sand, turquoise water, and a sense of stillness that’s hard to find elsewhere. Aside from the laid-back campground, there’s not much else here, and that’s part of its charm.

Just up the coast, Tokomaru Bay is a place where time seems to pause. The historic wharf and weathered freezing works buildings tell stories of another era, while Café 35 serves up the legendary pāua pie, rich, buttery, and worth the detour alone. Not into kai moana? Their pork belly pie is a crowd favourite too, alongside fish and chips, loaded fries, milkshakes, and weekly specials that keep locals coming back.

Another must-visit is the Te Puka Tavern, a beachside spot offering hearty pub fare, fresh seafood, and a welcoming bar. Whether you’re after a meal, a drink, or a place to stay, Te Puka has you covered with modern units for overnight stays and powered sites for campervans and motorhomes.

Heading north, Te Puia Springs is a quiet village known for its natural hot springs and laid-back charm. There’s not much in the way of business beyond the local store but with fuel, hot food, barista coffee, and even a post office, it’s the perfect spot to refuel both body and vehicle. Locally owned and operated, the Te Puia Springs Store is a beloved community hub, a one-stop shop that means locals don’t need to leave town for the essentials.

Further up the coast, Ruatoria stands as the heart of Ngāti Porou. Here, the connection between land and people runs deep. Though the town has weathered economic challenges, its strength lies in its close-knit community, one that knows how to support each other and keep traditions alive.

In Te Araroa, you’ll find Te Waha o Rerekohu, one of the largest and oldest pōhutukawa trees in the world. Its sprawling limbs have shaded generations, and it stands as a living symbol of endurance.

Just a short detour from here leads to the East Cape Lighthouse, perched at the easternmost point of mainland New Zealand and famously, the first place in the world to greet the sun. Before heading out, be sure to check online for access updates, as the route crosses private land and can occasionally be closed without notice.

Back in town, the East Cape Manuka Cafe is a charming place to enjoy a freshly baked treat and coffee in their peaceful garden, and it’s also ideal for stocking up on any of your favourite honey and manuka products, including oils and teas.

For something more substantial, 35 Eat Street, located at the Te Araroa Holiday Park, serves up a compact but satisfying menu of burgers with all the trimmings, generous portions at wallet-friendly prices. Check their Facebook page for current opening hours and specials.

Following the road as it curves around the cape, you’ll enter the Bay of Plenty region. First up is Waihau Bay, a renowned game-fishing hotspot where marlin and tuna are the prized catch. The beach here is a perfect place to stretch your legs, take a dip, or grab an ice cream from the campground store before hitting the road again.

Just a little further on, the Raukokore Church awaits: a dream stop for photographers, whether seasoned or just starting out. Perched right on the shoreline, this century-old white weatherboard church stands in striking contrast to the deep blues of the bay. It’s a scene that feels almost surreal, especially with horses often grazing nearby, adding to the rugged, postcard-worthy charm of the landscape.

The road twists and dips into Whanarua Bay, where dense greenery spills down to meet the turquoise sea. It’s a place that feels tucked away, almost secret. Make time for a stop at Pacific Coast Macadamias & The Nuthouse Café, where you can sip a coffee, indulge in creamy macadamia ice cream, or grab a bag of roasted nuts for the road. Wander through the lush garden, and take a moment to look down, the path and driveway are paved with crushed macadamia shells, a quirky detail that adds to the charm of this coastal hideaway.

Civilisation awaits in Ōpōtiki, but not before a stop in Te Kaha, where fishing and film culture meet. This coastal community played host to one of New Zealand’s most iconic films, Boy, so don’t be surprised if the scenery feels oddly familiar. For a place to unwind, the Te Kaha Beach Hotel is hard to beat - offering sweeping ocean views, poolside dining, and a laid-back vibe that makes leaving feel like the last thing you’ll want to do.