12 Hours Wellington

Start your day in the capital by climbing through the town belt to the Mount Victoria Lookout. The walkway is well-formed and can be steep, but is more than worth it to gain the iconic, panoramic view from the top. Watch ferries cruising into the harbour to the north, aeroplanes taking off and landing in the south, and houses scattered up and down and along green, undulating peaks in all directions. There are several starting points from which you can begin the walk: Courtenay Place (up Majoribanks Street), Oriental Bay (Moeller Street), Roseneath or Hataitai, and it can be turned into a 4.5km loop.

Break your fast at Customs, a well-established local favourite pouring some of the absolute best brews in the city. Alongside your custom cup of Coffee Supreme, indulge in one of the many epicurean toast options for the ultimate a.m. combo (this will casually be a whole lot more glorious and gourmet than any other coffee and toast experience you’ve had). With a checkered floor, dark wooden panelling and elegant black steel shelving, the mid-century modern vibes inside this little café are warm and inviting, and the outdoor seating is primely positioned to soak in the morning sunshine.

Expect a slightly heavier bag courtesy of the many goodies found on Ghuznee Street. twenty-seven names is a proudly Aotearoa label that delivers whimsical pieces with impeccable tailoring - designed locally, made ethically and worn with joy. Just across the road is Sully’s, owned by Hannah Sullivan. This small but mighty boutique operates with a singular goal in mind: chic, eye-catching womenswear that has sustainability at its core. Browse the delightfully curated collection that features both independent labels from afar and pre-loved items. Nearby, that was then, this is now is a thoughtfully curated space where traditional grooming meets independent fashion. This barbershop-meets-retail-store was opened in late 2021 by a husband-and-wife duo with a passion for timeless style. Expect to discover clothing that champions small-scale makers focused on quality, sustainability and story.

End the morning in Wellington’s coolest precinct, the Hannahs Factory laneway, connecting Ghuznee and Dixon Streets. There’s been a rejuvenation of this once-forgotten part of town thanks to the arrival of small artisan food producers and hospitality heroes. Grab a loaf for later or a delicious baked good to snack on now from Shelly Bay Baker on Leeds Street, who uses (and mills in-house!) organic New Zealand whole grains. You can also purchase this fresh, stone-ground flour from the bakery shop. Adjacent to the bakery is Golding’s, a colourful dive bar worth coming back to when the sun is further in the west, especially if you’re a craft beer enthusiast.

Another recent addition to the Laneway is Eva’s Garage, where there is so much more than meets the eye. It’s a one-stop shop bringing together café culture, an artisan gift shop, a florist, a barbershop, a coworking space, and a flexible events venue, all under one roof. Lastly, you must visit Wellington Chocolate Factory before heading to lunch.

From the team behind Thistle Inn, comes Cuba St Tavern - a celebration of everything that makes the capital’s hospo scene one of the most revered in the country. And one mighty fine spot to park yourself for a bite to eat and cheeky lunchtime beverage. The menu has a range of offerings; from brunchy bits to sharing plates, grilled goodness off the hibachi or larger plates if you've worked up a big appetite. Even on your first visit you'll instantly feel right at home.

Undoubtedly one of the most iconic streets in New Zealand, Cuba Street has a palpable energy. The heartbeat of this city, if you will. Visit the likes of Wellington Apothecary, Iko Iko, Slow Boat Records and Duck Island Ice Cream while you stroll around. Take a turn down Left Bank and check out Enjoy Contemporary Art Space, then get lost inside the cosy treasure trove that is Pegasus Books.

Now you’ve got a taste for some of art and culture, hop between Jhana Millers Gallery and Page Galleries. Both feature a rotating lineup of exhibitions, and it’s your chance to view some of the best artistic talent from Aotearo,a both established and emerging. Once you’ve had your gallery fix, pop to Vessel, a ceramics shop with an emphasis on locally made, quality pottery. They also stock artisan pieces from distant shores, such as knives from France and towels from Japan.

Leave the wide waterfront vistas behind and make your way southwest to Aro Street, the start of the quirky and quiet suburb of Aro Valley. Hidden in the hills, almost entirely surrounded by parkland and enclosed by the valley walls, Aro Valley can feel worlds away from the bustling city on its fringes. Check out the village then head to Aro Taproom for happy hour. Aro Valley is an artsy enclave home to students, artists, musicians… and the HQ of proud Pōneke brewers Garage Project. Their funky taproom, located just over the road from the cellar door and brewery itself. From classic lagers to wild ferments, piquant sours and crafted wine, there’s something to quench everyone’s thirst.

In a place mad about hospitality, Wellington makes it pretty damn difficult to decide where to head for dinner. We’ll make it easy for you: go to Apache. After beginning a fresh chapter in its new Tory Street home, this Vietnamese stalwart has picked up from where it left off, treating Wellingtonians to some of the capital’s finest Asian fusion delights. You'll want to head here with a group purely so you can order everything from the menu to try.

Puffin is an extravagant speak-easy style wine bar and the perfect setting to converse about the days’ adventures with your favourite people. Slip into a plush velvet booth and while the rest of the night away over a selection of natural and organic vino (or a classic cocktail or beer if you so wish). Oh – and say hi to that cheeky taxidermy peacock for us.